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Old 01-11-17, 10:42 PM   #1
Mister_D_Lister
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Default 1934 Stuart R3

here's a couple of details from my newly acquired R3

First, the flywheel conundrum - not enough space to get a socket on or any sensible amount of spanner jaws.... Any suggestions on how to get the flywheel off without wrecking the rope-start pulley bolt heads?



And the mag conversion - the bracket is welded to the sprocket and fitted over studs into the flywheel boss, leaving precisely zero timing adjustment (unless you go in 120 deg steps!)

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Old 01-11-17, 11:25 PM   #2
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A very thin wall socket to remove them, replace bolts with cap head screws for replacement.

Neil.
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Old 01-11-17, 11:50 PM   #3
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I would say it's the wrong nut.

Mine of a similar age, few years younger but same magneto/flywheel set up.

IMAG0861 by Stephen Williams, on Flickr
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Old 01-11-17, 11:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet 6 View Post
A very thin wall socket to remove them, replace bolts with cap head screws for replacement.

Neil.
Does nobody use box spanners anymore?

NHH
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Old 02-11-17, 12:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skankin_giant View Post
I would say it's the wrong nut.
It's a different pulley - I think it's actually designed for a starting handle as there is an indent in the groove to take the rounded end of a Petter M style starting handle (maybe). The pulley is quite deep, (you could get a 15mm strap wound on without curling the edges) hence the nut is mostly shrouded. It must have been a fiddly job to fit it & you can't put much force on a spanner sat over the heads of the pulley bolts. It would indeed have been better if they were slotted. I'll post an oblique shot tomorrow to show it better,

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Old 02-11-17, 12:36 AM   #6
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Oh sorry didn't notice that, it's not obvious in the pic, handle or rope start could be specified, mine looks like a chisel has been used in the past...
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Old 02-11-17, 04:50 PM   #7
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Here's a better view of the pulley - clearly this is not designed for rope start as there is no cutout. There is a very little room between the pulley wall, flywheel bolt & the pulley fixing bolt heads as you can see better in this pic. The indent is visible at the top,



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Old 02-11-17, 05:24 PM   #8
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I reckon it's going to be an arse.

Looks to me that you need to remove the 4 bolts around the starting dog first then the main nut, Neil's mention of a thin wall socket probably might work but it looks as if there isn't enough clearance between the nut and bolt heads. It's been done up so no reason why it won't undo.
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Old 02-11-17, 05:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_D_Lister View Post
Here's a better view of the pulley - clearly this is not designed for rope start as there is no cutout. There is a very little room between the pulley wall, flywheel bolt & the pulley fixing bolt heads as you can see better in this pic. The indent is visible at the top,

Paul.
Yep better indeed, crook handle type used on may Stuart, usually the same size as a 1 1/2hp Petter M or Villiers WX11. Unusual fitment to a R3, probably turned out to be an unpopular option.

Trying to think how mine come off now, will try and get in the shed and have a look at it.....IIRC the 4 bolts attach to a plate which is then screwed to the rotating magnets. You can just seen the plate/boss here.

IMG_20160917_000029 by Stephen Williams, on Flickr
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Last edited by skankin_giant; 02-11-17 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 02-11-17, 07:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickh View Post
Does nobody use box spanners anymore?

NHH
Not me, binned them all years ago, after rounding them all out.

Neil.
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