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Old 01-07-17, 01:04 PM   #1
Lister M
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Default Any Idea's please

Gentlemen,

I am helping a friend take apart a hopper cooled Lister L and we are currently trying to remove the hopper, all the nuts and washers have been removed, we have poured litres of releasing agent into the hopper, which leaks down the studs into the bore and into the sump or into the water jacket, but the head refuses to let go. Currently the engine is hanging off the ground from the forks of a forklift about two inches off the floor but still no movement. Any idea's please.
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Old 01-07-17, 01:10 PM   #2
martinpaff
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Martin - I had exactly the same problem with my MH, which was hanging from my garage roof with the old trolley still attached. In the end I made some brass wedges and drove them into the head gasket, which started the separation. The problem is that the studs rust into the holes all the way down, so even when you've broken the seal you may still have to drive it the whole way until the head comes off the studs. I made new studs in stainless...

MP
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Old 01-07-17, 01:22 PM   #3
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Had the same thing on a Villiers W-XII, that was where someone had used about 20 tubes of sealant on it though!

We hung it up on a chain block then used a couple of wallpaper scrapers driven in from all sides into the gasket to get it to separate, quite satisfying when it let go.
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Old 01-07-17, 01:30 PM   #4
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Agree with the others, brass wedges sounds like a good plan or its going to be a cut studs and drill job.

Got similar to do to a Petter M at some point...
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Old 01-07-17, 01:45 PM   #5
Lister M
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Thank you gentlemen, I can see gaps around the studs and the fluid is leaking through them but agree there will be rust, will try paint scrapers as don't have any brass to make wedges. Cant cut the studs unless I can separate the head from the block to get a blade in.
I have in the past put a fire in the hopper to warm it up, may end up doing that as well.

Thank you.

Martin P
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Old 01-07-17, 01:55 PM   #6
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It is also theoretically possible (I haven't tried it) to dismantle the engine from the bottom upwards (crank out, etc.) Then put a large lump of timber up the cylinder and a hydraulic jack inside the sump to push upwards...

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Old 01-07-17, 02:02 PM   #7
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A 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF makes a good penetrating fluid.
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Old 01-07-17, 03:58 PM   #8
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Had the same problems with a Stuart P4 and a WX11....

I've heard of one chap who resorted to gunpowder to separate a WX11 head from the barrel
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Old 01-07-17, 04:26 PM   #9
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Going WAY off topic I had a similar problem many years ago getting the head off of a BMC 3.8 diesel engine. Tried everything and resorted to chisels and pry bars and making a mess of everything. It fought me all the way off. Then I discovered the problem, the 4 inlet manifold bolts had no spring washers on and the extra thread was just enough to contact the head studs (the drillings went right through) and were jamming on them! All of no use to Martin of course but a lesson learned the hard way!!

Some Lister D type heads can be a pain to remove if water in the hopper has seeped down the head studs, I have had some struggles with them in the past and it was just a matter of plenty of PlusGas and brute force.

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Old 01-07-17, 04:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinpaff View Post
It is also theoretically possible (I haven't tried it) to dismantle the engine from the bottom upwards (crank out, etc.) Then put a large lump of timber up the cylinder and a hydraulic jack inside the sump to push upwards...

MP
Martin,

My friends had two one ton jacks on either side of the head and stopped pumping for fear of breaking the casting. The piston is currently seized so going in from the bottom is difficult.

Martin P
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