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Old 19-01-16, 04:19 PM   #21
martinpaff
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Hmmm...

You haven't mentioned why the bungs have got to come out? Are you certain you can't avoid it? If it's just to lap the valve there is almost certainly a way round.

It might be better not to destroy the cap if it can be avoided - this has happened to other people and I suspect there may more engines than bungs!

MP
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Old 19-01-16, 04:32 PM   #22
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It is possible to grind the valves in without taking the bung out, not ideal but once the head is off you can just about reach up and apply grinding paste to the valve via the bore then use a drill on the valve stem. No good if the seats are shot tho....
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Old 19-01-16, 05:03 PM   #23
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Now that's great news ! thank you martin & appletop, then that's what I will do if I can lap that valve in place, its great to learn as I go along thanks again.
Ps, I am taking it apart for a refurb and paint..

Kevin.
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Old 19-01-16, 05:32 PM   #24
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Sorry never thought here is a shot of the engine..
It will have to stop outside tonight till the fire has burnt out.


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Old 19-01-16, 08:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevjankie View Post
(snip) ...but before I do what are the chances of getting hold of another brass bung..?
They do come up on ebay 2 or 3 times a year, usually in pairs. You just missed a set, ended 14 Jan @ 31 Plus postage.

Phillip
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Old 19-01-16, 09:03 PM   #26
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Default The colour blue

Gents,
I have a Lister A spec 29 with the Ser No 260690 which is only 14 away from Kevin's. David Edgington says the engine was supplied to F H Burgess of Lichfield on 14/02/1946 although the Ser No suggests it was made late 1945.
The strange thing is that when I was stripping the old paint off the body it had been painted blue and it looks to be the same shade as inside Kevin's hopper. Mine did not have blue paint inside or outside the hopper, just on the body. I put a posting on about it, here is the thread
http://www.stationary-engine.net/for...ad.php?t=34482


Kevin, I would be interested to know if yours was also supplied to Burgess.
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Old 19-01-16, 11:05 PM   #27
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Default Lister A

H
If you were trying to unscrew the plug when the hopper and plug were hot the brass plug would expand more than casting making it tighter let it cool down then try with the bar and stilson But an air impact gun will give you a better chance I have a plug if you have to drill it out. If the engine is down on compression you will have to most likely cut the valve seat and face the valve
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Old 20-01-16, 02:10 PM   #28
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Default Plug removal.

Hello Kevin,
One more thing you can try. Agree that impact will help, so if you take a flat ended punch or drift and smack the plug firmly round the flange
and (less firmly) inside the recess, it helps to break any rust film and may allow some penetrating oil to do its work. May need several treatments but give it a little time and you just might win. Has sometimes worked well for me.
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Old 20-01-16, 03:43 PM   #29
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Well, I was up at the crack of dawn today it was -3 deg so the engine was cold. I gave the windy gun another go and it did move very very slightly, I sprayed a good drop of wd40 and left it till this dinner time and had another go, half an hour forward and reverse with the windy gun and its out!!
A very big thank you to all you chaps for the input it was very very much appreciated.

Kevin.



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Old 26-01-16, 02:59 PM   #30
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Engine is now coming apart, but I do need a bit of info I am trying to remove the governor arm and want to know if its a roll pin or a bolt that holds it in place? if its a bolt then the head must have been broke off at some time and will have to drill it out..
thanks kevin.



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