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Old 22-06-18, 04:39 PM   #21
Robotstar5
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Thanks Chaps.

I really do understand the "space" issue, and I don't have unlimited space, which is why I have had to make room for this.

On the other hand... ...if you have a single garage then you have more than enough space for an oil engine.

TBH, it's much more about transport than storage. This thing weighs about 1.5 tons; my lightest oil engine is the little Crossley JJ, and I'll bet there's still at least 1/2 ton, probably more. You have to be able to move it around at home, load it onto your trailer, tow it (legally, preferably!), and show it. For those who like to turn up at rallies with a giant caravan plus all accessories, this is most inconvenient!

...and then there's operating the thing. If you are accustomed to a Lister/Petter/Wolseley, then it's quite a leap to hot bulb engines. You can't just fuel it, start it, and walk away - they require babysitting. It is not rocket science, but they are a bit more tricky than the average spark ignition engine. I had to learn the hard way, and I'm definitely no expert even now.

Finally, there's showing the thing - you have to do it for your own pleasure! As has been said on here a number of times before, the vast majority of shows are not interested in the amount of trouble involved in bringing a big old lump; you get the same thanks and commemorative mug as you would if you had taken your Wolseley WD2! This is the (at least one) reason why the bigger and more exotic engines appear less frequently than they used to - and I completely understand. There will (no doubt) come a time when I can't be bothered to haul heavy stuff, and then I will be showing a little Appletop everywhere...

MP
Martin, that is a really informative post for me.

There are bound to be others like myself who had not heard the term "Stationary Engine" until a couple of years ago (I had seen them at shows for a few years before that) who would appreciate that sort of information.

Would it be worth putting a modified version in the FAQ section?, it may help folks new to the hobby when deciding what to buy knowing what's involved with the various types and sizes available.

You may laugh, but when I first started looking for an engine I didn't realise a Villiers Mk10 could be carried by hand and transported in a car boot , I thought all engines needed wheeled trolleys and trailers to transport them.

Stuart.
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Old 22-06-18, 06:05 PM   #22
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Martin, that is a really informative post for me.


Stuart.
Same here Stuart, Martin puts it across far better then I could have done I'm afraid.
I'm going to have to rethink where I go with engines, probably this year
I have no storage at home at all, moving home is not happening either, sadly.
I rely on my rented storage unit for all things engine, and on my little van to move them about. I'm all out of space, actually I should have stopped buying while back, as now I cant get in the unit to work without getting engines etc out, which make working on them weather dependant. A change of vehicle is on the cards for one reason or another as well. Unless something very unexpected happens I could well find my self with no option but to show engines I can pick up and put in the back of a hatchback

Neil.

PS: Sorry for dragging it off topic Martin, but your post has set the wheels into motion.
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Old 05-09-18, 06:29 PM   #23
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When I collected the 12hp Shanks (now christened "Little Shanks" (!!!)) it came with two identical starting handles, Lister I think?

The handles are designed for a 2 3/4" crankshaft and the Shanks has a 2 1/2" shaft, so something needed to be done...


I started with the handle casting on the mill, and bored the centre through true and parallel.
Next I made a sleeve from a chunk of 3" diameter cored iron, and pressed it into place with a smear of Loctite 638 High Strength Assembly Adhesive - the sleeve is in there for good!
Still set up on the mill, the sleeve was bored to the diameter of the shaft, plus 15 thou. Finally the holes were drilled and reamed out, and the split pin slot was deepened.


This is the handle. The grip is filthy, and the shaft is bent. At 3/4" diameter it took some serious slugging to get it back to straight!


The grip was scrubbed with paraffin, then spun in the wood lathe and wax rubbed in. All reassembled I now have a nice handle that fits the crankshaft smoothly with just enough slack to come off cleanly.

MP
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Old 05-09-18, 09:25 PM   #24
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Great job!

Looks a nice safe starting handle, only last weekend I was told tales of a handle gone wrong and an engine owner who lost a full bottom set of teeth.

Phill.
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Old 05-09-18, 09:49 PM   #25
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Nice engine Martin, At 1.5 tonne it is not too big to rally, but it is necessary to be able handle an engine of that size.

In my early days of engine collecting I soon realized that it became necessary to be equipped to handle then without causing an injury and to be independent. My largest engine is a 6 1/2 hp Blackstone portable which is just short of two tonne That engine was easily handled with a winch on the truck. I no longer have the truck, but I now have a trailer and a Toyota Landcruser. I can still handle the Blackstone, but us is just over the legal limit without cab controlled brakes. I have had it on it but only for short distances. My small trailer has a hand winch that is good for small engines up to three or four hundred Kgs. A lot of the guys here have hand winches on there trailers and some who rally larger engines have electric winches, on either their truck or trailers

Merv
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Old 05-09-18, 11:25 PM   #26
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Nice job on the re-furb when you were straightening the shaft, did you wonder how on earth someone bent a " bar?.

Stuart.
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Old 06-09-18, 04:01 PM   #27
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Nice work Martin. Likely ex-Lister JP handles.

Paul.
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