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Old 17-03-10, 09:39 PM   #21
wolseley phill
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Originally Posted by GaryM View Post
By far the best tool for removing keys is a Key draw. this tool is widly used by agricultural fitters as combine harvesters still use gib keys on variable speed pulleys and it is designed for just this job.
It's a piece of flat bar tapered to a point at the end! it also has a leading edge that pulls the tool down onto the key.
I removed two flywheel keys from a lister CS this evening in seconds with mine. I've only ever had one key resist this tool on the Lister P but after building the key up with weld and filing a flat for the tool out it came.
They cost about 20 but they save a hell of a lot of messing about, trust me if you're playing with old engines you should'nt be without one of these.
any decent agricultural dealer should be able to supply you with one.

I can get them if anyone needs one drop me a line.

Cheers Gary
One of those sounds a tempting investment! I will look into it!

Thanks,

Phill.
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Old 17-03-10, 09:44 PM   #22
martinpaff
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You're trying to heat the pulley but (ideally) not the shaft. You want the outer item to expand off of the shaft. In reality, they will both get hot, but the coefficients of expansion will still loosen the outer item. You must heat the iron pulley/flywheel carefully and evenly or you risk cracking it.

Gary - I'm interested in the key-draw, but does it harm the face of the flywheel? The advantage of the chisel is that it spreads the load.

Martin.
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Old 17-03-10, 09:46 PM   #23
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Thanks, I have just read something about "Never heat flywheels" but like you say, even heating should be ok.
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Old 17-03-10, 10:01 PM   #24
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I have never used a puller on a flywheel, on pullys ,yes but never a flywheel. What I tend to do is to clean ths shaft untill it is nice and shiney, remove the inspection door, if it has one, if not then find some way of stopping the crankshaft from turning right round (blosk of wood under big end cap will do) then spray loads of penetrating oil into the keyway, greasa the shaft then "Bump" the flywheel by rotating it backwards then spinning it forwards as fast as you can so it hits the block and stops dead. This is normaly enough to remove even the most stubborn flywheels, I have removed lister D flywheels right up to C/S anf VTH flywheels the same way with no problems.
Keep the shaft well oiled and away you go.
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Old 17-03-10, 10:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by martinpaff View Post
You're trying to heat the pulley but (ideally) not the shaft. You want the outer item to expand off of the shaft. In reality, they will both get hot, but the coefficients of expansion will still loosen the outer item. You must heat the iron pulley/flywheel carefully and evenly or you risk cracking it.

Gary - I'm interested in the key-draw, but does it harm the face of the flywheel? The advantage of the chisel is that it spreads the load.

Martin.
Hi Martin, It does a little bit of damage to the flywheel hub as it digs in but I use one of the bent types, I find these better on engine flywheels, a piece of 3mm plate between the tool and flywheel helps protect it.
I can post a pic of mine on here tommorow if it's of much interest?.

Using a chisel is fine as well as long as it has a long taper on it, but I find most to be too steep.

Cheers Gary..
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Old 17-03-10, 10:09 PM   #26
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That seems possible; there's certainly plenty of stored energy in the flywheel. If you stop the crank suddenly, then the flywheel would certainly want to keep going.

The only thing that would worry me is that our vintage cranks are not hardened - you would need to be careful not to twist/bend the crank. Maybe somebody had been trying this on my BPR crank, which was bent!

Martin.
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Old 17-03-10, 11:09 PM   #27
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Thanks Martin,

I think I will make a flywheel puller. Thinking about it I can see how to do it with some lengths of threaded rod.

With regard to heating, what Do's and Don'ts, apart from obviose safety implications etc... things like, should you heat the shaft or the pulley?

Sorry to ask all these quesions but I'm a complete beginner on this subject!:embarassed:

Phill.
hi phil, heat the pulley only, as you want to expand that and not the shaft, personally i heat in one line only from one end across to the other side so that you are opening up the pulley in effect, others will have their own ways buy this has worked for me for years, good luck. jon
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Old 17-03-10, 11:16 PM   #28
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with the tank, cant you just weld a plate on the bottom?
thanks, jack.
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Old 17-03-10, 11:36 PM   #29
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ive made a flywheel key puller at work for a lister D if your shaft is 1 1/2 inch i will happily let you borrow it if you want to. Only thing is dont know how id get it to you.....
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Old 18-03-10, 08:50 AM   #30
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Thanks everyone!

Some interesting ideas there. I think I will try the "bump" first but it strikes me as a good idea to put a block of wood under each crank weight rather than the big end cap, then you are putting the load on the stronger part of the crank and don't risk bending it in the middle.

I will definitly have to heat the pulley though, so thankyou for the advice on that.

Eliot, the shaft is a lot smaller than 1.5", more like 1" I think but I will try the chisel to take the key out. Thanks for the offer anyway.

All the best,

Phill.
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