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Old 14-10-17, 06:52 PM   #1
robert's rust
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Default Run away engine

Had a go at starting my lister cs today, it started OK but the governor is non existent and the engine revs kept increasing up to about 700rpm I had to manually operate the pump rack to control the rpm, obviously the spring adjustment was of no use, so, I removed the linkage and on operating the governor bottom lever I can hear the cam weights rattle in and out so I am assuming that the problem could be with either the governor sleeve or the governor inside lever, I removed the crankcase cover and if I do the operation in reverse ie move the camshaft weights by hand the movement on the bottom crank lever is very little, could the governor inside lever not be engaging correctly or would it be the governor sleeve sticking, and if I were to operate the injector pump rack back and forth with the linkage attached should I see the weights moving in and out? and finally as a matter of further interest what is the purpose of the adjustment on the governor connector rod (between the bottom lever and top lever)
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Old 14-10-17, 07:04 PM   #2
listerdiesel
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Have you changed the pump at all?

Peter
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Old 14-10-17, 07:16 PM   #3
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no the pump has not been touched
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Old 14-10-17, 10:08 PM   #4
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CS's are prone to moisture getting in through various apertures and seizing the governor collar, I've experienced one do it before, but it had thankfully seized in a sensible running position.

By removing the flywheel, governor case etc, it's easy to get to to clear, and the governor collar is often caked with old oil. The weights still move, but empart no influence on the pump when sticktion occurs.

Paul
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Old 15-10-17, 05:36 PM   #5
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I wonder would this apply also for a lister L, a friend has one which runs out of control and needs controlled manually,

Again it sat for many years open to the elements.

Chris
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Old 15-10-17, 08:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrismac View Post
I wonder would this apply also for a lister L, a friend has one which runs out of control and needs controlled manually,

Again it sat for many years open to the elements.

Chris
Hi Chris,

Camshaft and governor are the same on the CS and the L I believe.

Paul
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Old 15-10-17, 08:20 PM   #7
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Thanks Paul, this is interesting and worth a look,

thanks

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Old 16-10-17, 09:33 AM   #8
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thanks Paul, I believe you are correct I have removed the linkage and when I swing the weights in or out the movement on the lower lever is virtually nil, I have also noticed on close inspection that the taper pin holding the cam gear in place has been lost and has had a makeshift repair with a non taper pin that is bashed over at the ends, this results in the cam gear sliding slightly so if I now get someone to wriggle the lower lever the weights move but the other movement is the cam wheel sliding back and forth ( 4mm or so) with all the linkage fitted when I manually move the weights in and out there is not enough movement in the linkage to effect the pump at all, I will now have a look inside the governor housing I have read and understand the problems and fixes I may come across when removing the gib key but what I don't understand is when I pull the governor cover off how does the governor inside lever remove itself from the groove in the governor sleeve, the same applies when refitting how does the inside lever connect itself into the sleeve groove.

Robert
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Old 16-10-17, 10:31 AM   #9
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Hi Robert,

Good, i'm pleased you are closing in on the issue, hope it is not too bad to fix.

in the case of mine, it was a matter of cleaning away layers of heavy rust filled sludge, and polishing away rust. This was on an engine which, would you believe had been "fully restored", sadly these days there are still people who believe slapping paint on an engine constitutes fully restored.

Paul.
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Old 04-03-18, 09:46 PM   #10
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I finally got the flywheel removed to look into the governor problems I have with the engine running away, with the camshaft governor end removed the problem was obvious, the inner lever arm was bent outwards and not in contact with the camshaft sleeve, I managed to straighten the arm but it has a slight twist in it also which means the roller is not square to the camshaft and it has a couple of flats on it, one of them quite serious, so the next thing is to replace the inner lever and roller, I have seen an original one for sale which costs around the 42 mark, but the same seller also has a complete linkage set with the inner lever included or 40, I expect these sets are listeroid jobbies, as the engine is 70 years old there is some play in the linkage so are these "roid" sets any use, has anyone bought a set ? I was considering just enlarging the holes in my original linkage and fitting new pins to fit but the roid sets seem well priced, any opinions? do I get an original inner lever and repair my original linkage or try one of the indian made roid sets?

Robert
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