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Old 30-04-18, 04:50 PM   #331
PuttPuttBang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinpaff View Post
I have considered it Daz, and I may yet drop a narrow tube over the upper part, but I also have a cunning plan, not visible in the pictures. I have a piece of timber with two tight fitting holes which drops over the threads and holds the two the precise distance apart (40.5").

I have a nasty suspicion that I'm trying to "engineer" a job that would have been done fairly roughly!

MP
RH included a template and instructions for mounting provision in the engine instructions, basic measurements and a diagram IIRC. It has always surprised me that the early IP beds had two mounting holes only, they moved to three holes in the later IPs like mine.
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1929 Ruston-Hornsby 6 AP, 1925 Ruston-Hornsby 5 IP, 1920s 50V GE dynamo.
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Old 30-04-18, 05:04 PM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinpaff View Post

I have a nasty suspicion that I'm trying to "engineer" a job that would have been done fairly roughly!

MP
Aeronautical Engineer, safety factory = 1.1, tolerance = exact.
Civil Engineer, safety factor = 10, tolerance = half a brick.

Get some concrete sloshed in there!!!



DH
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Old 30-04-18, 07:47 PM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danthetangye View Post
Aeronautical Engineer, safety factory = 1.1, tolerance = exact.
Civil Engineer, safety factor = 10, tolerance = half a brick.

Get some concrete sloshed in there!!!



DH
Half a brick??? That's a fine tolerance your Civils work too, around here it's a brick n a half.
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Old 30-04-18, 08:31 PM   #334
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As long as it's in the same parish, it'll fit!!!
And if it don't get a hammer and if that don't work getta bigga amma.!

That engine does not have the option to go anywhere with Martins precision and determination
Great job Martin

regards
Phil.
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Old 04-05-18, 10:48 AM   #335
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I picked up some bits and pieces from the foundry yesterday;



The serial number plate has come out nicely. It is not perfect, but then I doubt that Ruston's plates were perfect either. In this picture it has had a quick skim across the top with the sanding disc.



I put it under the mill and skimmed a little thickness from the back, then soaked it in the aging solution. This is the result - I reckon it will do...

MP
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Old 04-05-18, 05:29 PM   #336
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Still labouring away with the crankcase;



I've never had an engine that is so difficult to get rid of the original paint/filler...

This stuff is tough as old boots, and now I am down to the remains of the filler, the stripper won't touch it. I plan to try some cellulose thinners, but didn't find time this afternoon...

MP
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Old 04-05-18, 08:35 PM   #337
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Have you got acces to a needle gun,preferably a pnumatic one,but an electric one would work, just takes a lot longer.
They are very good at removing stuburn c##p,and as its a cast surface the peining marks won't show.

Regrards
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Old 04-05-18, 08:50 PM   #338
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Phil,
Agreed best paint remover I've ever acquired and its pneumatic

Martin P
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Old 04-05-18, 10:16 PM   #339
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Thanks for the thought chaps. I have a pneumatic needle scaler, but it's absolutely no use for this. The residual filler (much less than the picture might make it appear) is ingrained into the cast texture, and the scaler can't touch it.

MP
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Old 04-05-18, 10:24 PM   #340
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What size needles are on your gun?try a smaller needle gun,there are some that have needles down to 1/16" but be bl##dy carefull they can inflict some very nasty injuries.
Otherwise try caustic soda.almost neat.maybe 10% water.

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