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Old 26-03-17, 05:26 PM   #1
Bertie the BSA
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Default Villiers f15 no spark but am I doing something wrong?

Hi, now posting in the right section I hope....

I have a Villiers F15 with no spark. Got out the multi meter and doing some testing.
With the points taken off the plate, I get a dead short when they are closed, and open circuit when they are open. So far, so good. But when the points are put back onto the plate, dead short open or closed....should there be an insulator between the points and plate?

Measuring the primary coil, it get 0.5ohms
The secondary, measuring between the spark plug cap (when I can get a good connection!) and ground I get 8.75 Kohms, so I'm guessing the coil/lead is shot.

The coil and lead look like one piece, and the only replacement I can see is off Villiers and Allen, 69 for the complete assembly...gulp!

Would love to hear your comments

as always, many thanks and best wishes

Kevin & Lois
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Old 26-03-17, 09:48 PM   #2
air-cooled
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bertie the BSA View Post
(snip)....should there be an insulator between the points and plate?

The secondary, measuring between the spark plug cap (when I can get a good connection!) and ground I get 8.75 Kohms, so I'm guessing the coil/lead is shot.

Kevin & Lois
I don't know about an insulator between the points and the plate, but its an easy thing to test for yourself with a very thin plastic washer.

The 8.75kohms sounds a bit on the high side. Do you have a resistor plug cap fitted, Does the resistance decrease if the cap is removed and you test at the bare HT wire?

Phillip
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Old 26-03-17, 09:58 PM   #3
Bertie the BSA
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Hi, many thanks for responding. I might make a plastic insulator and see if I get a spark.
Try as I might, I can't remove the plug cap and get at the wire....

cheers

Kevin & Lois
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Old 27-03-17, 01:33 PM   #4
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The plug caps usually just twist off.

Phillip
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Old 27-03-17, 03:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air-cooled View Post
The plug caps usually just twist off.

Phillip
On the mk12 I have on a Simplex pump it's actually stuck on, I thought I had plug cap problems with that so cut it off as it wouldn't unscrew, turned out it was dirty points.....
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Old 27-03-17, 07:02 PM   #6
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Stuck on !! .... wow, they really did want to sell a complete new stator unit, how very moderne.

Phillip
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Old 27-03-17, 07:04 PM   #7
hortimech
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Don't try insulating the points, you will never get a spark if you do

The points need to earth out when they close, so if the points are fitted to the plate and there is conductivity between the plate and where the wires attach to the points (with the wires detached) when the points are opened, you have problems.
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Old 27-03-17, 08:21 PM   #8
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Hard to see, but in the pic on your first post it looks as if the black plastic insulator is incorrectly fitted, allowing the terminal screw to permanently
earth the moving part of the points out.
The points should only make a circuit when the contacts are touching.

Neil.
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Old 28-03-17, 06:17 AM   #9
ScottUK
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Hi,

If you get no joy with it, what about this;

http://r.ebay.com/FJhOYZ

There is also a stator on eBay with the electronic ignition module which is directly interchangeable AFAIK & should prove more reliable;

http://r.ebay.com/77YlzR

Best regards,
Scott
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Old 29-03-17, 05:20 PM   #10
Bertie the BSA
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Default A spark!

Many thanks for all your replies, after really and thoroughly cleaning points, plug, contacts etc, now have a spark, even when only turning the flywheel by hand.

Now for the carb....

by the way, I still have no idea about stopping the engine bar pulling the spark plug of the top. There is no ignition switch... and a couple of lads just at the end of our close have a 1944 Villiers (mk10 or mk12?) , and they have a shorting contact behind the points, but nothing on mine.

May have to put in a switch myself...

many thanks

Kevin & Lois
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