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Old 29-09-13, 08:04 PM   #21
Appletop
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Finally got my act together and fitted the new bearings, first off, off with the pulley.



Not as hard as I thought, just gave it a bit of work and off it came...



Pulley was scrap so slitting it with the grinder seamed like a good idea,

Bearings next.



They just slid off, the shaft was wasted along the length where the bearings didn't fit so that made it easy. New ones on and just leaves final fitting.



Got the new pulleys and belts fitted this afternoon and gave it a trial run.





All went ok until I fired up the PAZ, the speed was to high and it bounced about all over the place, bit scary for a second or six, tweaked the govener and got it to a good speed and gave it a test, worked ok but I need to move the exhaust as it blows down at the moment and when it opens up I get cackled!
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Old 29-09-13, 08:10 PM   #22
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Cackled!?! lollollol

I assume that is speckled with cack?

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Old 29-09-13, 08:13 PM   #23
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No, filled with diesel fumes and makes you cack!! All the smoke wafted under the bench and came up around my feet and into my face, need to ether move the exhaust a quarter turn so it blows out the side or fit another elbow so it does the same, will have a look and see what I have kicking about.
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Old 02-06-14, 05:11 PM   #24
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Interesting result came after an email to Jim Perkins, turns out this saw/engine set was just that, a proper ARUM built job with my Petter A1 being supplied without pulley but with Burgess air cleaner on 20/12/1948 to ARUN Engineering Co, Horsham
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Old 02-06-14, 05:28 PM   #25
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Looking good !!

I just noticed that you seem to be using a tapered gib head key with the taperlock bush in the pulleys

The key really should be just a standard parallel key.

I'd be worried that the taper could over stress & then crack (or is that cack !!!) the bush - especially as they're made of cast iron.

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Old 02-06-14, 05:59 PM   #26
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All changed since those photos Jim. Finished up changing the pulleys again as I got the maths wrong and the blade was to quick, new ones are not taper lock so the keys are now "right".

Only thing that did become an issue with this swap over is the fact the PAZ is taller so the cover doesn't fit and the crank shaft is longer so the belt cover didn't fit, cut a large hole in the cover so the crank pokes out and that is now on, as for the cover, when I get some 1inch angle I shall be extending that and making another cover. Really cuts well with the PAZ.

The A1 is in the shed as I type getting a rebuild and paint job.
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Old 02-06-14, 06:05 PM   #27
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Should help keep you warm this winter Rob, you'll get through those logs in no time now!
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Old 02-06-14, 06:29 PM   #28
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Indeed Jules. The Petter A1 that was on the set to start with was a really good engine and the whole thing worked well, with it being a proper set it should have done really, now with the PAZ on it is just as good but runs on red diesel @75ppl rather than petrol at 136ppl!!
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Old 07-06-14, 10:59 AM   #29
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So now I have a Petter A1 wanting some tender care I started a strip down of the engine, first was the flywheel, this was easy enough and didn't fight me much, then the tin work followed by other components, one thing I did notice was how clean everything was inside...



Above picture shows the conrod and crank seen through the inspection cover on the side, just goes to show how good modern detergent oils are at cleaning engines!





And No, that hasn't been touched, that is just as it came out of the engine.

The sludge in the bottom of the sump wasn't that bad, I never changed the oil in this all the time I had it, it "looked" clean when I got it and that was as far as it went, it has done about a months work since then, when it was drained it still looked like oil so I think it must have been done just before I got it.
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Old 07-06-14, 11:48 AM   #30
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Is there still a good oil layer on thing's bearings etc ?
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