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Old 13-05-18, 11:21 PM   #551
Hornet 6
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As you seem insistent on using the 'proper' seals
I would without doubt ease them a little, if only to get back to the .002" end float, as it can't be right having the crank end float set by the seals, which is what your describing now.

Neil.
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Old 13-05-18, 11:30 PM   #552
wolseley phill
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Yes, I agree.

Content to use the original type seals, they should last a very long time once adjusted properly.

Phill.
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Old 14-05-18, 09:50 PM   #553
wolseley phill
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The P4 was dismantled again this evening, I measured the clearance on both seals and found the rear one a bit tight.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

I used one half of the carrier to keep the split ring flat whilst working it on the surface plate.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Heating each crank case half with the hot air gun made assembly easy.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The crank now rotates better, though there is still the slightest tight spot... however, there is now always 0.002" end float and I'm content to leave it at that.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The next job was to make some new gauze filters for the oil ways.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The old felt seal in the pump drive housing had seen better days so I made a replacement. To re-fit the retaining washer, the steel tube that carries the seals had to be peened over slightly, finishing the job once the seals and washers were installed. I placed a steel sleeve inside the seals whilst fitting the retaining washers which resulted in the seal keeping the correct shape.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The next step is to install the governor and pump drive gear. I want to see that the pump lines up nicely after re-bushing the housing. At least the crank seems OK now, it's taken a while to get there.

Phill.
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