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Old 07-05-17, 07:54 PM   #11
eddie78
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Well had a bit play with the lister today, soldered up the fuel tank and no leaks from the repair, tiny bit of weepage from the petcock so need to sort that.

New HT lead and plug timing set to 10 degrees TDC starts up great from cold and engine speed seems to be alot better

There is some blow by from the piston ( only to be expected) and exhaust valve so when the engine gets pulled apart for painting this will be addressed and long over due decoke.

The only 2 issues I am having at the mo are she is still a bit jumpy ( I know its single so never going to be smooth) and the second problem, Is she starts great from cold but when up to full working temp she is a pig to fire ( sure its operator error).

Anyways a quick youtube vid of it running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyS3DGAjb_Y

Timing chain is quite noisy when I got the engine it had alot of tight links give it a good soak in atf/thinners and it freed off the downside is its noisy (been reshimmed)

Last edited by eddie78; 07-05-17 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 07-05-17, 11:56 PM   #12
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Much better in that video well done, I think it could still do with being a bit slower and that will sort the bouncing out.

As for the hot start I'm not sure what to say, I have also had a d in the past that would not start once hot (you could crank the thing for hours and get nothing) but if I walked away for 30mins and went back it would start first swing! I never did get to the bottom of it maybe someone else one hear will know?

Keep up the great work
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Old 08-05-17, 12:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010macjac View Post
Much better in that video well done, I think it could still do with being a bit slower and that will sort the bouncing out.

As for the hot start I'm not sure what to say, I have also had a d in the past that would not start once hot (you could crank the thing for hours and get nothing) but if I walked away for 30mins and went back it would start first swing! I never did get to the bottom of it maybe someone else one hear will know?

Keep up the great work
Thats is mine to a T crank forever no start pull the plug bone dry etc.... walk away in a huff come back after a brew and away she goes.

Speed wise I thought it was about right lol. it needs a strip and decoke when you look through the plug hole its pretty coked up and the exhaust valve isnt sealing as it should.

I know every engine is different but one thing I have noticed on mine compared to others I have seen the the air valve has pretty much max preload wound on the spring, what effect does that have on the running?
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Old 08-05-17, 06:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Thats is mine to a T crank forever no start pull the plug bone dry etc.... walk away in a huff come back after a brew and away she goes.
I'm not saying that it necessarily is, but that could be the symptom of a duff mag coil. Internal arcing warms up the coil and when you attempt a re-start you can't crank enough speed for a spark. Once the coil has cooled it will start.

I had this once with an RS1 fitted to an A-type; a rewind cured it.

MP
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Old 08-05-17, 01:17 PM   #15
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I'm not saying that it necessarily is, but that could be the symptom of a duff mag coil. Internal arcing warms up the coil and when you attempt a re-start you can't crank enough speed for a spark. Once the coil has cooled it will start.

I had this once with an RS1 fitted to an A-type; a rewind cured it.

MP
I kinda suspect the same even when cold the spark isnt as fat and blue as I have seen on other Ds and when warm I would say the spark is not as good, still hurts lol

The points spark quite a bit so that could point to a duff condenser I have some caps kicking about 150nf 630v so will slave one in to see if there is any improvement, nothing to lose
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Old 09-05-17, 02:45 PM   #16
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I think I have it cracked.

Took the Mag of span it with a cordless drill to get a benchmark spark so I could see if I had any improvement.

With the condenser and coil removed I put the meter across the body and the points contact thats internal to the mag with the points closed got 0 ohms (as you would hope lol ). But with the points open I had a resistance of 5.8 meg mmm thats not right. traced it down to a insulator thats goes through the body of the mag ( on the rs1 theres is a little screw just above the points cover) this was causing the resistance pulled it all apart made a new insulator from some nylon. Back together now have a big fat blue spark.

she fired up better than ever 2 spins on the handle and settled into the smoothest idle she has ever had ran her for 2 hours, shut it down and went to fire up again give it a lazy spin on the handle and she fired right up.

Will sort some pics tomorrow of the part that needed renewing and vid of her running
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Old 09-05-17, 06:59 PM   #17
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Hope that's itbut 5.8 meg (ohms) compared to the coil secondary of 4 or 5 k and primary in ohms? Could be a sign of the points insulation breaking down but is the dodgy coil working now its been disturbed.

Take no notice of me, takes a bit of convincing.

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Old 09-05-17, 07:28 PM   #18
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Coil and condenser was not even in the mag the fault was where a a conductor passes tbrough the mag case and the insulator between the mag case and conductor had a resistance of 5.8meg so when points where open instead of been open circuit they had a resistance of 5.8meg

I will try to sort pics tomorrow to show what I had found
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Old 09-05-17, 09:09 PM   #19
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Nice fix i will keep a eye out for that. Well done
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Old 10-05-17, 01:33 PM   #20
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Just a quick video engine now running with the rebuilt mag, runs a lot smoother and now the mag is sparking better I can run her slower as well


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7cnyr4uU_Q
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