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Old 28-10-13, 07:18 PM   #11
timothygstokes
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Originally Posted by Windrush View Post
You shouldn't need an oil change yet Timothy, it's only been in there a week! Wilkinsons own brand 20-50 is what I use, 9 for five litres which will last you until you have Grandchildren.....

Pete.
I'm only planning ahead, Pete. Plus, both of my oil cans are empty , so that is partially why I'm looking for oil.
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Old 28-10-13, 07:51 PM   #12
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Learn to search google and ebay, it's cheaper elsewhere... I get mine from an independent motor factor, who is a lot cheaper than halfrauds.

Dan
I have just ordered the same oil off of eBay
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Old 29-10-13, 06:29 PM   #13
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Lister state the d type capacity as 1 quart (2 pints), I have always put basic 20w50 oil in my d's and in 25 years of doing this ive never had a problem, but Im sure there are reasons why a monograde 30 oil is better.
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Old 29-10-13, 06:38 PM   #14
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Lister state the d type capacity as 1 quart (2 pints), I have always put basic 20w50 oil in my d's and in 25 years of doing this ive never had a problem, but Im sure there are reasons why a monograde 30 oil is better.
Thanks for that, I have just been looking through the Lister d restoration book, and it says that the oil capacity is 2 pints. It also says that if you are filling through the filler, then tilt it back. Does anyone do this?
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Old 29-10-13, 07:18 PM   #15
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Nope, I pour 2 pints in from the rocker cover, then take the "Oil here K" off and check the level.
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Old 29-10-13, 11:11 PM   #16
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It probably makes very little difference if any lol I guess its a case of how mucky the oil is, and if your going to give the sump a clean out or not. I do mine warm because thats the way I was shown by dad. But I was also told that warm oil drains better and pulls most of the sludge and crud with it from the bottom of the sump?

Tim, not so sure if Halfords sell it or not. I think I went for some and didn't get much joy, they only seem to sell the little 1 liter bottles for the little mowers. I bought a can of Morris Lubricates SAE-30. Golden film I think it was? Recommended to me by the forum. I think Comma also does a SAE-30. Which was also recommended to me via the forum. I just choose the Morris lubricants because I knew a little local shop where I could get it.

Both can be had on ebay if you can't find it in store

Dan
I have also always made sure the engine is warm when draning oil because i was told it drains better. Appletop has a good point about oil being left covering everything. But then i always leave mine draining for a couple of hours and then pour a touch of new oil in until i see it start to come out before putting the plug back in. In the end i doubt it makes any difference whats so ever. Probably more like a superstition!
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Old 30-10-13, 08:41 AM   #17
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So would a SAE 30 four stroke lawn mower oil be suitable then. Only ask cos I've got a few litres of this.
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Old 30-10-13, 08:50 AM   #18
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Be fine, SAE30 is SAE 30
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Old 30-10-13, 11:17 AM   #19
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At the risk of showing my ignorance (it's one of the ways I learn things!), why would an 'old fashioned' style SAE 30 oil be better for a Lister D than an old fashioned style 20w50 multigrade such as Halfords classic motor oil?

Wouldn't a multigrade provide better protection against engine wear at the extremes of temperature we sometimes encounter on the rally-field (freezing cold winter crank ups to running all day in the baking hot summer sun)? Wouldn't a multigrade also provide better protection against wear during short 'cold' runs when tinkering with, or showing off our engines to friends too?

I know a 'modern' oil is probably going to provide better protection than oil did 70 years ago, but aside from that issue, when comparing today's oils, which type is genuinely better to use in a Lister D, A or B; an SAE 30 or a 20w50 'classic' multigrade? :confused:
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Old 30-10-13, 01:43 PM   #20
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All good questions Jules, and it goes to common misunderstandings about "cheap" v "quality", "old" v "modern", and "mono" v "multi" grade.

Lets try the multigrade bit first...

Mono grade is simple oil, with a viscosity that reduces as the temperature increases. It is generally specified so that the viscosity is "as stated" at normal working temp.

Multi-grades are "modified" so that they react differently to a mono at different temps, but the first misunderstanding (often quoted) is that the oil is thinner at lower temp - this IS NOT TRUE. e.g. - a 10W50 oil is modified so that it acts like a 10 when its cold and acts like a 50 when hot. This doesn't mean it is thinner when cold, just that it isn't as thick!

So your suggestion that a multi would be better for short runs is completely correct, (and is why they were created in the first place) but the downside is that in modifying the mono, the performance at working temp is corrupted to a limited extent. If you were racing (for example) and pushing the oil to the extreme you might be better with a mono...

Cost...

Quality oils tend to contain more new product; economy oils tend to contain more recycled oil. The more expensive oils also tend to contain more additives, some of which are very expensive. The biggest issue to us is that good oils generally are high detergent. The detergent is there to clean the inside of the engine - "great!" you might think, but the muck has to go somewhere; generally into the oil filter, if you have one! In our engines the oil is unfiltered and any solids will be carried by the oil to wherever it goes, including (very soft) main bearings, etc.

Cheap oil may well contain less detergent.

Age...

Bit questionable really... Old oils almost certainly didn't contain recycled product, but I'll bet that modern production techniques provide much tighter spec'd product.

What does this all mean to me? I use the cheapest 10w40 multi for everything! I buy it by the 22L container and pay about 1 per litre.

MP
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