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#1 |
Forum Supporter 2011
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: wickford
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Hi, I have done it again. Despite the fact that I already have a near enough terminal Ruston VT in bits that is soaking in Diesel to free it off I Couldn't resist buying another!
![]() Just like the first, the new arrival is seized and in a poor state but it is in slightly better condition overall. I saw this engine advertised on a Facebook page and as I have always fancied having a twin I committed to buying it................................................ ........................Had I seen Martins Shanks up for sale before committing to this one the outcome would have been somewhat different!! Anyway, I collected it today and I have done a preliminary inspection of what I have bought, it is not too bad but not exactly as described. There is more damage than declared and it was partially dismantled! Here is what I have let my self in for.. ![]() The front cover is missing its hardware and was just resting there, I lifted it off to reveal nice and clean valve gear with a little corrosion so not too bad. The injectors had been removed and the seller said that he had pulled them out to put Diesel down the bores.........they did come with the engine, along with the manifolds. ![]() The seller pointed this frost damage out.. ![]() But failed to spot this............................. ![]() At least the second frosted part simply unbolts. The fuel tank is a rusted mess but this is not an issue as I have a decent replacement. ![]() Unlike the other engine I bought, this one is full of oil, removing the crankcase door revealed reasonably clean crank gear.....and also evidence of water ingress past No2 piston. ![]() No 1.. ![]() Aaaannd, No2 ![]() ![]() I wonder if these will be as stubborn as my other one? I do hope not! I will post more tomorrow. Dan. |
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#2 |
Forum Supporter 2013
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Rochford
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You do like a challenge don't you, good luck with it.
Neil. :) |
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#3 |
Forum Supporter 2011
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: wickford
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#4 |
Admin Team
Forum Supporter Join Date: Feb 2008
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Gerald has some new YWA silencers, ideal for these engines.
Peter
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Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk |
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#5 |
Forum Supporter 2013
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Rochford
Posts: 2,106
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#6 |
Forum Supporter 2011
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: wickford
Posts: 3,027
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#7 |
Forum Supporter 2011
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: wickford
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Hi, the top end strip down is now complete, the head was well stuck but by far the most awkward job was undoing the inner most pair of nuts that held the rocker pedestals. They had been set corner to corner and none of my tools would fit. I ended up undoing one using an open ended spanner end on with a pry bar in its other end. This is not ideal but got the job done.
![]() A good piece of news was the presence of clean diesel when the fuel rail was unbolted from the pumps. ![]() With the head off the extent of the seizure was revealed. ![]() ![]() The bores were as dry as a bone and both of the valves on No 2 are seized shut I am wondering if the water has gotten in through the open injector holes. both valves on No 1 were also closed although they are not rusted up. I have put a load of Diesel down both bores but I am unsure of how best to proceed. When I work on one piston the other one will be trying to move in the opposite direction, unbolting the big ends will not ease the situation either. What do you think is the best course of action? It is unfortunate that the cylinder block doesn't unbolt from the crankcase like the 2YB I had. ![]() Dan. |
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#8 |
Forum Supporter 2013
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Rochford
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Just my tuppence worth, looking at the last pic for reference.
I would clean the visible bore in both, give them a good soaking because you will need to work on freeing the right one. Unbolt the rod cap for the left one, then using a hard wood plug turned to size I would then try to jack the right one down using the head studs, the left will then be at tdc and with luck you will be able to push it out from below (assuming the rod is smaller than the bore). All you can do then is finish cleaning what you can of the right one and try turning the crank and pushing it out the top after removing the rod cap. Good luck and keep posting. Ignore the above if I'm teaching you to suck eggs ![]() Neil. ![]() |
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#9 |
Forum Supporter 2011
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: wickford
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Cheers, I will definitely be cleaning the exposed bores up before attempting to move those pistons. I will have a tentative go at them tomorrow evening.
Dan. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: County Durham
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Hi Dan,
looks like the makings of a great project. just as an idea (and its only an idea, I've not tried it) maybe use a honing tool to clear the top end of both cylinders, pour hot (and fairly thin) oil in there to warm everything up, and then try to turn it so No.1 cylinder goes down, as its lower bore looks okay, then at least you are only fighting a reasonably small upper rust ring on cylinder 2. Paul.
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