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Old Today, 07:20 PM   #571
Leader400
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Talking temperatures.
My R3 generator set had a fire extinguisher as a cooling tank originally, it took a about 20 minutes for it to come to the boil ( mine does not have a pump to circulate the coolant) I switched to a small alloy barrel and now it takes all day to get the water anywhere near boiling.....

Tony
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Old Today, 07:38 PM   #572
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Just for info, this is the size of tank ST installed them with, probably expecting long periods of unsupervised running.
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Old Today, 08:23 PM   #573
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I keep wondering about cooling, if tank content is fixed at 5 gallons, what else can affect the running temperature.
Is pumped better than thermo, is tank shape important, if pumped can you pump to fast, so may things could effect the outcome, but do they actually make a difference ?

Neil.
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Old Today, 08:47 PM   #574
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Most of the pump ST's were designed for running from external water sources, river/lake/sea etc.
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Old Today, 09:02 PM   #575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet 6 View Post
I keep wondering about cooling, if tank content is fixed at 5 gallons, what else can affect the running temperature.
Is pumped better than thermo, is tank shape important, if pumped can you pump to fast, so may things could effect the outcome, but do they actually make a difference ?

Neil.
Thermo will be better for heating up to start with and more stable in temperature than pumped as its a natural way to get rid of the heat, size of tank does matter to an extent and also load as having enough load to make it govern correctly rather than ragging its nads off on 110%load will produce less heat as less fuel is burnt.
Weather can also make a difference, a hot day with wind and they will run cooler than on a hot still day. Last year at Palgrave the R3 pumper got the water in the "bucket" so hot you couldn't put your hand in and that's only heated via the coil in the square tank on the engine.
At my Crank up last year both my tank cooled M types went "off the boil" at the same time, around 3.30 when the temperature dropped and they both stopped.
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Old Today, 09:37 PM   #576
Hornet 6
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Mine seems to run the 5 gallons of water at 190*F outside temp doesn't seem to matter, it runs hotter off load than on load, and burns less fuel on load than off load. The outside temp only seems to affect the warm up time, but no matter what it is the cooling tank is boiling after 40 minutes or a little less on hot days.
At your crank up last year it was boiling all day, only cooling after I turned to off, temp gun always give the same answer, 190*F for the water, and cylinder

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Old Today, 09:50 PM   #577
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Do we need to worry so much about boiling, excluding closed systems? So long as the heat is lost through evaporation and you keep the coolant topped up it should be fine surely.

I certainly don't worry about it with my Lister, which gets on a good rolling boil after an hour or so on a hot day. Going back to my time working on steam boilers, boiling water and pumps don't usually mix well, so presumably more of a (theoretical) problem on an engine with pumped coolant?

For the P4 I have a galvanized tank which can take about 70 litres if brimmed. The most efficient cooling I have come across was the screen cooler I made for the N3, you could put about three pints in the system and it wouldn't boil it - very tempted to make another some time for this engine.

Phill.
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Old Today, 10:02 PM   #578
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This evening I finished the pulley modification, shortening the rear spacer so that the pulley just locks the spacers and bearing when nipped up. I turned a short taper on one end the spacer so that it would pass easily into the felt seal without damaging it. The spacer runs inside the felt seal and the pulley run in the rubber seal - it's as per the design shown in the cut away drawing. I did clean up the spacer before final assembly!

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

There was still an issue with the magneto drive, the chain wasn't rolling round the sprockets willingly at all and would have sounded awful. I also found that once tightened up properly, the magneto sprocket was binding up on the crankcase. I've fitted the other sprocket which does not have the oil slinger and modified the felt seal to suit. The chain has also been replaced and runs smoothly now - the magneto sparks well down to approximately 60 RPM so it should be a good starter.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

So with that, the bottom end of the engine is built up and ready for the cylinder.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

A bit of elbow grease has got that pulley looking reasonably too.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Phill.
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