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Old 04-12-17, 06:38 AM   #31
minorman
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I am also at the same stage as you with one of these. It was an absolute "B" to separate the generator rotor from the crankshaft. I only had to go in there to replace a broken tappet but it took me literally weeks to separate the rotor / crank. On mine, the 110 V socket is physically the same as the modern one in that it takes a modern 110 plug but it is just an older version. Ditto the 240 v one. I hope to start putting it back together next week so will be watching. If you find suitable replacement brushes please post the details.
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Old 04-12-17, 12:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Day View Post
Hi all,
Well the strip down started yesterday and itís going wellÖ.. ish.
Everything is coming apart for cleaning/inspection relatively easily with very little magic spray (WD40) being needed. =======

So, now on to the main issue Iím havingÖ..
As previously mentioned Iím going to split the unit into two sections and treat them as complete separate projects.
Iíve got the bulk of the Allams Minigen off but I canít get to the last 4 bolts to remove the genni as I canít get the (insert the correct name hear, itís the big metal wheel the rotor attaches to) off the shaft, Iíve removed everything else but before I resort to heat and hammer wanted to make sure Iím not missing anythingÖ.. Any ideas or do you think itís just seized on?
No it's not. As I understand it there are normally 3 types of engineering fits of shafts to bushes etc. Well now you can add a fourth -- heat plus a B****y great hammer cold welded fit. I removed the little cap head screw inside the rotor on the shaft and you have to completely remove it followed by a lot of heat WD40 etc and some big tyre levers. As I can see it, this ensemble was never designed so it could be taken apart. Took me 2 weeks to separate it. Why it was done this way - who knows. There is no need for it to be that tight and the spacer bush underneath on the crank was just as bad.

Once I got it all off and the end of the generator plate the bolts that hold the engine end case on were removed. The next problem is removing this fragile ally casting. Two of the holes actually contain sleeves as locating dowels that some bolts go through. Depending on which version of the F15 you have depends whether the crankshaft ballrace bearing has a circlip holding it in or not. I was lucky it was not fitted as even this bearing is a No 4 fit in the ally case.
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Old 07-12-17, 06:09 PM   #33
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Was it installed on a boat? Water cooled exhausts are pretty common on both main engines and generators
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Old 07-12-17, 06:36 PM   #34
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Not on a boat to my knowledge. I got mine as a part restored and well painted but not working project. One tappet had broken so it would not run, the condenser needed replacing and even now the wipac magneto coil has a bit of a question mark over it. I also need to cut off the bolts that hold the silencer on as these have been b***ered and rusted in so I can weld up the silencer to its flange. Once I try to get it running I will know where I stand.
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Old Yesterday, 10:35 PM   #35
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https://youtu.be/MCWtKI7ehbM
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Old Today, 12:12 AM   #36
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Finally!
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Old Today, 12:22 AM   #37
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It's alive at last

Stuart.
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Old Today, 12:38 AM   #38
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I've just looked at the pictures of my F15 which has a hole in the cowling below the switch, but yours appears to have a wire or pipe coming out of it, do you know what it is?.

Stuart.
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