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Old 04-06-15, 09:22 AM   #21
Trembler
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Just catching up with this thread. I'm probably 'teaching Granny' here but a riving knife is only really needed for planking or sawing along the length of timber to open up the cut to stop the wood 'pinching' on the blade. Regarding safety, the two most important are the side blocks, to prevent the blade catching the bed or table sides should it become unbalanced (wobble) and a 'free' pulley and lever where you can move the belt from the driven pulley to the free pulley from your working position should you need to stop the blade. On acquisition of such a saw the first thing I would do before attempting to power it up would be to take the blade to my local saw doctor, at the local sawmill, and have him balance, sharpen and test it for cracks.
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Old 04-06-15, 09:09 PM   #22
adgecutler
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I would suggest side blocks are a good idea although they may already be present affixed to the underside of the table? The blade shouldn't get the wobbles much anyway if the blade is sharp and has a decent set to it.

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Old 05-06-15, 01:59 PM   #23
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Condition of the blade axle/hub bearings would also play a big part in balance and 'wobble'.
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Old 07-06-15, 03:04 PM   #24
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I've just picked up a nice little "Arun" engine and bench setup, before I run it I will definitely send the blade to be doctored, PLEASE PLEASE put a top guard and riving knife on your sawbench, as others have said in this thread, you are not guarding against using the bench, but what happens when you slip/stumble or someone pokes you in the ribs when they bring you a cuppa and you have your ear defenders on... They are very useful tools and a good way of exercising an engine rather than having it ticking over all the time.
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Old 18-01-16, 08:40 PM   #25
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Personally I wouldn't use any circular saw without a top guard or riving knife. Without either you are setting yourself up for an accident.

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