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Old 30-11-12, 12:20 AM   #11
RobSmith
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My lovely generous son has given me the lurgy.... lovely.
I am now going through the whole thing he had of feeling freezing cold, shivering, high temperature, coughing, ear ache etc.
..anyway... Dressed in three pairs of socks, two pairs of fleecy trousers, 4 or so jumpers and a wooly hat I went out and cut out the rest of the adapter plate. I cut the straight sides of the hole in the centre out with a thin wheel in the grinderette out in the garden but had to stop after each cut to stand up and let the blood go back to my legs due to the constraints of far too much clothing.
I finished cutting out the core plug clearance hole and other holes inside.



I made an error with the starter position. I had 1mm too much engagement. My fault.... I have been trying to use my brain rather than the calculator or cad system to do simple maths in an attempt to not turn into a button pushing zombie who can't do simple maths in his head..... Obviously I failed at that attempt. I looked at the numbers again and my measurements were correct but my adding up wasn't. I have had to just rotate the starter around the top bolt as that one also goes through the gearbox sohad to slot the other two a little. I will splodge some weld in the holes and file them round again in the correct place.

I have now corrected the cad model by the 1mm I was out and have adjusted a few other things on the hole shape to improve the Mk 2 if I were to ever make another one.

Quite keen to give it a spin over with the starter but a few things need bolting on properly, an oil pressure sensor fitting etc first.

Rob

Last edited by RobSmith; 30-11-12 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 02-12-12, 06:56 PM   #12
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A bit more progress today.

The adapter plate now has its rubber mount brackets welded on and the plate is now painted. The paint chosen because it was the tin on the shelf that did not rattle

With the help of the wife, some big stilsons and a couple of short bits of scaffold tube we wrestled the brass tap out of the gas bottle which is to become the main body of the gassifier once chopped down in length.

After filling the gas cylinder with water I then chopped out the hole in the top for the fire tube...


I then set to with the 'throat' in the bottom of the fire tube. I first tried using a 3" hole saw. That would have worked if the hole saw was razor sharp but it isn't and I couldn't apply enough force with my electric drill and also get it to run slow enough. I then decided to chain drill the hole.
Marking the hole required something of 3" diameter...


After centre punching and then lots of drilling...


I drilled parrallel to the axis of the tube so each hole cut through about 1/2" or so of steel so it took a while..


Back in the shed with the internal door shut and the outside door shut and ear plugs in I set to with a carbide burr in my die grinder and made a roughly round hole and radiused the edges inside and out to give a smooth path for the fuel to drop through...


Can you see what it is yet? ....



Lots more to do.

Rob
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Old 02-12-12, 07:08 PM   #13
Andy B
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"I then set to with the 'throat' in the bottom of the fire tube. I first tried using a 3" hole saw. That would have worked if the hole saw was razor sharp but it isn't and I couldn't apply enough force with my electric drill and also get it to run slow enough. I then decided to chain drill the hole.
Marking the hole required something of 3" diameter...
"





I made a silencer out of an old stainless BA bottle set for my Ruston. Whilst making this (I had to also drill a large hole (about 3 inch)), and found a little 'trick of the trade'.
First, use your hole saw to drill for a few seconds. This is to simply make a mark as to the radius of the holesaw.
Second, drill a number of holes ( only 4 or 5) using a drill bit the same wall thickness of the hole saw all the way through, roughly spaced out around the previously marked hole.
Third, use your hole saw to complete the hole. As the hole saw teeth meet the holes you have drilled all the way through, they get another 'bite'.
Using this method is much easier, and saves a lot of hard work for the holesaw.
This method also works very well on perspex/macralon, as it prevents a build up of temperature, thus preventing the plastic melting.


I love this sort of thread where somebody tries making something interesting.
All looks great Rob.

Andy
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Old 02-12-12, 07:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
"I then set to with the 'throat' in the bottom of the fire tube. I first tried using a 3" hole saw. That would have worked if the hole saw was razor sharp but it isn't and I couldn't apply enough force with my electric drill and also get it to run slow enough. I then decided to chain drill the hole.
Marking the hole required something of 3" diameter...
"





I made a silencer out of an old stainless BA bottle set for my Ruston. Whilst making this (I had to also drill a large hole (about 3 inch)), and found a little 'trick of the trade'.
First, use your hole saw to drill for a few seconds. This is to simply make a mark as to the radius of the holesaw.
Second, drill a number of holes ( only 4 or 5) using a drill bit the same wall thickness of the hole saw all the way through, roughly spaced out around the previously marked hole.
Third, use your hole saw to complete the hole. As the hole saw teeth meet the holes you have drilled all the way through, they get another 'bite'.
Using this method is much easier, and saves a lot of hard work for the holesaw.
This method also works very well on perspex/macralon, as it prevents a build up of temperature, thus preventing the plastic melting.


I love this sort of thread where somebody tries making something interesting.
All looks great Rob.

Andy
Thanks Andy,

I did think of trying that but I thought the hole saw would self centralise but didn't realy want to. It was tending to skate around all over the place. I was also having a job holding the thing, it being round. My electric drill also runs too fast, even in low ratio for a hole saw of that size so I gave the hole saw up as a bad job.

I have just had a bath to get rid of the thousands of tiny steel 'needles' that came off the carbide burr. I am sure I will be finding them in my fingers for a few days to come.

Rob
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Old 02-12-12, 08:16 PM   #15
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Rob,
I welded in a 'bung' for the hole where the fitting had screwed into, which then had a small hole in for the holesaw drill. This prevented any wandering of the holesaw.
I also had the benefit of doing it in work... on nights ..... during my, erm, 'break'
Well done for completing the task at home!

Andy
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Old 02-12-12, 10:19 PM   #16
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I just brought the adapter plate inside for the paint to dry. The temperature in the shed is too cold for painting realy.

The lugs on the side sit on nice soft ford fiesta gearbox mountings so should damp out the vibrations fairly well...


Rob
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Old 02-12-12, 11:29 PM   #17
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I forgot to add a description of my intentions at the start of this thread.

My aim is to take willow sticks chop them into small pieces, with some machine I am yet to create, and use them in the gassifier to provide carbon monoxide to the little fiat engine. It should run on that and then provide shaft power through a reliant gearbox for driving my bits of machinery, drive a generator for providing off-grid power and the waste heat will be used for heating our house, and polytunnel/s.

A good description of how one works is here...

http://www.vedbil.se/veddrifte.shtml

and one similar to the one I am building is here..

http://youtu.be/LWwNX0Bf7WI

Rob
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Old 14-12-12, 09:19 PM   #18
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A little bit of progress.
I have have been rough with some flu type bug so not been doing very much out in the shed.

I got the gearbox attached to the engine with my adapter plate. (Just loosely bolted there... I was waiting for the clutch plate)

The Morris minor clutch plate turned up. (leant against the engine with the Fiat cover plate).


After a good rummage in Brians breakers yard I found a Marina propshaft which has a male splined part that fits the female splined part of a reliant propshaft so have the start of the 2" output shaft that bolts directly to the reliant gearbox. That will have the 7" Lister CS pulley one the far end as my belt drive output.

I shall be ordering a 6kva generator from Mech Alte but decided to do that after Christmas is over and done with.

The postman brought an enormous box from RS today with several more paper bags of electrical components. These are for the start of my speed governing setup. To get the fiat engine running I would need a cooling system, exhaust and the rest of my wood gas gadget so have turned up a bush to fit the fiat front pulley onto a little suffolk engine. I will get my govenor to control that first. I still need to drill and tap the threads in the bush but I was getting too cold and starting to cough again so back in here on the pooter....


Rob

Last edited by RobSmith; 14-12-12 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 14-12-12, 09:29 PM   #19
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Why propshaft to pulley; why not just attach the pulley to the output of the gearbox. Just curious, and interested.

Martin.
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Old 14-12-12, 09:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinpaff View Post
Why propshaft to pulley; why not just attach the pulley to the output of the gearbox. Just curious, and interested.

Martin.
Because it is somewhere else? Not adjacent to the gearbox.

Peter
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