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Old 20-11-17, 02:15 PM   #11
pulsechoes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lister M View Post
My book is No 68/152 with no amendments attached.
Yes, my second reference should have read "68/152". Sorry, a slip in my note-taking.
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Old 20-11-17, 02:22 PM   #12
Lister M
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My 68/152 doesn't cover the F or FK only the D and DK
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Old 20-11-17, 05:09 PM   #13
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As I said in my posting, It's 68/341 that covers the D,DK,F & FK. Yours's just covers the D & DK. I just got the number wrong, as I explained.
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Old 20-11-17, 05:59 PM   #14
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It was the Late David Edgington who admitted to me during a phone call that 31 thou written in his books was wrong, a misprint apparently, though possibly now correct? He referred me to David Harris (ex Lister field engineer for those not knowing of him) who told me that he didn't bother measuring the gap when overhauling an engine as they are a little fiddly to access with feeler guages but as long as there was some movement that was good enough for an engine running at D Type speeds. I mentioned "Around 10 thou then?" and he said it would be fine so that's what I use. Up to the individual I guess, my first D's were set to 31 thou and were a little 'clattery' but ran just as well as the later ones with a smaller gap! I remember something Ray Hooley told me once in an email after I requested some Ruston information; "You lads worry more about your engines than we ever did while making them" and he is probably correct!

Pete.
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Old 20-11-17, 08:21 PM   #15
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Default Lister Valve Clearance

Agree with you completely, Pete.
I've rebuilt many an engine, many without specs being available, but they all seemed to run just fine without technical "correctness" being used- as long as the basics were followed.
I've just never rebuilt a Lister, so the specs in the manual I found seemed quite tight for valves.
The "misprint" title on the attachment I posted is mine-just so I don't forget the discrepancy sometime in the future...memory not being what it used to be.
I'll probably open up the clearance quite a bit- maybe 0.10 + cold on the intake, and 0.20+ cold on the exhaust to allow for more heat expansion.
The engine actually ran fine on the .003 lashing, but I didn't let it get hot.
My mechanical style is pretty much summed up by the reply of the elderly mechanic when asked what ft.lbs he used to torque an old engine head down.
"I pretty much like to torque it down to just before the bolt breaks"

Thanks to all for the input.

Tmann
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