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Old 13-05-18, 11:21 PM   #551
Hornet 6
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As you seem insistent on using the 'proper' seals
I would without doubt ease them a little, if only to get back to the .002" end float, as it can't be right having the crank end float set by the seals, which is what your describing now.

Neil.
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Old 13-05-18, 11:30 PM   #552
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Yes, I agree.

Content to use the original type seals, they should last a very long time once adjusted properly.

Phill.
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Old 14-05-18, 09:50 PM   #553
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The P4 was dismantled again this evening, I measured the clearance on both seals and found the rear one a bit tight.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

I used one half of the carrier to keep the split ring flat whilst working it on the surface plate.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Heating each crank case half with the hot air gun made assembly easy.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The crank now rotates better, though there is still the slightest tight spot... however, there is now always 0.002" end float and I'm content to leave it at that.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The next job was to make some new gauze filters for the oil ways.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The old felt seal in the pump drive housing had seen better days so I made a replacement. To re-fit the retaining washer, the steel tube that carries the seals had to be peened over slightly, finishing the job once the seals and washers were installed. I placed a steel sleeve inside the seals whilst fitting the retaining washers which resulted in the seal keeping the correct shape.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The next step is to install the governor and pump drive gear. I want to see that the pump lines up nicely after re-bushing the housing. At least the crank seems OK now, it's taken a while to get there.

Phill.
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Old 21-05-18, 10:35 PM   #554
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Good progress this evening with a trial assembly of the governor, magneto drive and pump drive. The pump gears mesh nicely, no clearance issues and it all turns freely. A few seals to tweak and the timing to set, but it's looking good. I'm still intending to get it together and test run it before paint.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Phill.
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Old 21-05-18, 11:21 PM   #555
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Looking more and more like a complete engine, good to see
Should you ever come across a spare one of those self extracting magneto sprockets, I really could do with one

Neil.
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Old 22-05-18, 08:45 AM   #556
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I would tension that chain a little Phill, it appears to be hitting the casing? Mine was the same at first.

Pete.
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Old 22-05-18, 10:08 AM   #557
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It will be Pete, the mag has to come off again to make a thinner felt seal.

Phill.
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Old 22-05-18, 07:49 PM   #558
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Sorry to hijack this excellent thread slightly but I will be asking in the right place. I am still looking for one of these end castings and also if possible the speed control plunger assembly both for an early P5 with 4 bolt head. The casting can be with or without pump flange ( I can live with either). These are the only bits I need to complete my first ST.

p.s. apologies for cloning your picture.
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File Type: jpg p5 end.jpg (78.2 KB, 12 views)
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Old 23-05-18, 10:22 PM   #559
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Having another look at the engine last night, I found that there is a small alignment issue with the BTH magneto, the sprocket ending up about 1/16th " too far forward - just enough for the chain to try and pick up. Irritating, but the governor gear and sprockets weren't in when I measured up the magnetos...lesson learnt.

It's just as easy to swap to the other magneto since it has now been removed from the other engine, I re-charged the magnets today and set the contact breaker. It gives an excellent spark and fits the engine perfectly.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

The engine has a hook starting handle which I don't like, never got on well with the WX-11 which had one! This engine having a shaft which extends from the back of the engine lends it's self to having a starting pulley, so I've modified an old aluminium vee pulley to suit.

The pulley is threaded 3/4" BSW to match the shaft and has a register on the shaft. The OD of the hub matches the spacers on the crank which run inside the felt and rubber seal - I just need to shorten the rear spacer now by the depth of the hub.

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Untitled by Phillip Sheppard, on Flickr

Just needs a bit of cleaning up and a groove for the cord to catch. It looks pretty grotty now, but a new one probably wouldn't look right. Once cleaned up, this should look the part - I'll use a very mild phosphoric acid solution to treat the corrosion once the worst has been removed by hand.

Phill.
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Old 23-05-18, 10:45 PM   #560
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Coming alone well now Phill, but interesting that you should choose rope start.
I can see why, but I'm wondering how well it will work when you have to spin the generator as well.
My starter rope goes around a 5 " diameter drum, starting is just brute force, I have to keep a foot on the engine or it lifts off the ground, and no matter how hard you pull, you wont get more a slow spin, if it doesn't start while the rope is still working, it wont go.
There is no way I would want to try starting while also spinning a heavy generating unit.

Neil.
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