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Old 13-05-18, 08:00 PM   #11
air-cooled
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Originally Posted by danthetangye View Post
(snip) Also have your new gaskets opened up the end float of the gears so that its just leaking?

Good luck!

Dan
As Dan says, this is important in gear pumps. If the new gaskets are too thick you will get fluid leaking around the gears rather than being forced around the outside of the gear, and little or no suction. Clearance between the gears and end plates should be as little as 1 thou, sometimes half this.

Phillip
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Old 13-05-18, 08:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by air-cooled View Post
As Dan says, this is important in gear pumps. If the new gaskets are too thick you will get fluid leaking around the gears rather than being forced around the outside of the gear, and little or no suction. Clearance between the gears and end plates should be as little as 1 thou, sometimes half this.

Phillip

Maybe this is the problem . I made gaskets in the time honoured way using a tea bag box from the kitchen .

I will try it without gaskets and see what difference it makes .

I will report back when I can get back in the shed .

Steve
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Old 13-05-18, 09:05 PM   #13
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It is definately a pump ( I have had it in bits ) so not a motor .

The plumbing is exactly the way it was on the original machine and the relief valve , so I have not got them the wrong way round ( relief valve is on the inlet side though ).

It does not appear to have been taken apart before and reassmbled wrong by a previous owner .

It came from an old lawnmower engineers shop and was used to suck oil out of the mowers . the tank it is sitting on has got about a gallon of oil in it so it must have pumped at some time .


Steve
Well, as an old lawnmower engineer, I don't recognise the pump, but that doesn't mean much, I haven't seen every pump going

The problem is, unless you know what you are looking at, internally a motor looks very like a pump. However as you say it has been used as pump, therefore it must be a pump.
I am also open to the screw device being a relief valve, but if it is, it is on the wrong side, if, as you say, it is on the inlet side. There is a problem with that though, it is on the same side as the smallest pipe and the largest pipe is always the suction side.
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Old 13-05-18, 09:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The wild eye View Post
Maybe this is the problem . I made gaskets in the time honoured way using a tea bag box from the kitchen .

I will try it without gaskets and see what difference it makes .

I will report back when I can get back in the shed .

Steve
If you assemble one side plate and drop the gears in you can then use a straightedge and feeler gauges to get the total clearance, if it appears excessive or the side plates are worn a flat surface and emery paper will probably sort it out.
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Old 14-05-18, 06:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The wild eye View Post
It is definately a pump ( I have had it in bits ) so not a motor .

The plumbing is exactly the way it was on the original machine and the relief valve , so I have not got them the wrong way round ( relief valve is on the inlet side though ).




Steve
Well, Normally the suction side hoses would be larger than the pressure, and a PRV would be on the outlet returning to inlet (Or tank).

That pump reminds me of an old power steering pump - large suction pipe from header, smaller pressure outlet and PRV to prevent pump stall at full lock.

Could you be running it backwards?
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Old 14-05-18, 09:33 AM   #16
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Some of these pumps direction and inlet/outlet configuration can be changed just by turning the PRV housing around.
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Old 17-05-18, 06:38 PM   #17
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Got it pumping guys .




As you can see it is pumping away at 2 gallons in about five minutes .

as sugested I changed the card gaskets for thin paper ones .

My plan was to mount it and use veg oil for displaying purposes but I am in two minds whether to sell it as a workshop tool ( that was its original purpose )


Thanks for the help guys .


Steve
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